In their 2008 progress report, the China Council for International Cooperation on Environmental Development defined the circular economy as "a generic term for the reducing, reusing and recycling activities conducted in the process of production, circulation, and consumption" (CCICED, 2008).
In the 1990s, the term "Circular Economy" was popularized in China, stemming from rapid economic growth and subsequent strain on the country's natural resources. The principle of a circular economy is to capitalize on the recycling/reuse of raw materials while balancing natural resource use with economic growth. Although definitions of circular economy are relatively modern, the fundamentals of the circular economy have been around since before the industrial revolution.
Examples of a circular economy in Ottawa are second-hand stores such as Value Village. The role of thrift stores in promoting reuse is essential. Buying clothing second-hand is an efficient way to promote a circular economy, recycling raw materials while interacting with local economy. Consumers can reduce their consumption by reusing existing clothing, repairing garments, and upcycling thrifted clothes into new, trendy pieces. Then, garments can be recycled into valuable fabrics and materials when they can no longer be worn. The desire from conscious consumers to lengthen the lifespans of clothing items helps to promote this circularity.
Over the past
few years, there has been a steady increase in the popularity of buying
second-hand clothing. Subsequently, the appeal of buying second-hand has led to
people's shift from the culture of fast fashion to more sustainable
options.
However, the modern influences of social media tend to encourage overconsumption and the constant cycling of fashion trends. These messages of overconsumption from the media increase the rate at which clothing is produced, bought, and disposed of.
According to Subramanian Senthilkannan Muthu in the book Fast Fashion, Fashion Brands and Sustainable Consumption, "The phenomenon of fast fashion chains is due to the way this business model manages its production chain and supplies. Combining the quick response to the agile, lean retailing and leagile processes, it is possible to deliver products to retail outlets in a few weeks, in response to growing consumer demand for new goods." (Muthu, p.1)
Consumers tend to cycle their clothing every few months to keep up with fast fashion, and donation to stores such as Value Village makes it easier for people to make space for new trends. This constant cycling allows people to consume fast fashion more readily without dumping undesirable clothes. As a result, clothing from fast fashion brands is flooding the racks of these second-hand clothing stores. Moreover, although the cycling of clothing from fast fashion companies may extend the lives of these garments, these items are cheaply made and will likely end up back in second-hand stores or landfills.
This cycle is an issue because while buying fast fashion second-hand is better than purchasing it directly, it may not reduce negative environmental and ethical impacts. This crossover between linear and circular economies makes it hard for consumers to practice sustainability.
There are plenty of existing garments in the world today, so why not invest in more second-hand clothes? It is crucial to expand the accessibility of sustainable options to everyone to avoid discouraging ethical consumption (even if people consume fast fashion second-hand). Nevertheless, circularity within the economy is necessary. Clothing that comes from the fast-fashion industry is not built to be reused. The garments are still produced in poor working conditions and contain plastics and other toxic chemicals.
Either way, buying fast-fashion second-hand still contributes to a linear economy. In order to fully embrace the ideas of a circular economy in the realm of second-hand stores, stores and consumers should aim to exclude fast-fashion altogether.
To conclude, second-hand stores such as Value Village help promote a circular economy by promoting the continuous reuse and recycling of existing garments. However, the influences of modern media promote a linear economy and increase the rate at which clothing is produced, bought, and disposed of. Consumers tend to cycle their clothing every few months to keep up with fast fashion, and donation to stores such as Value Village make it easier to clear space for new trends. The mass donations of cheaply made garments resulting from overconsumption flood second-hand shops. This cycle is an issue because buying fast-fashion second-hand still has negative environmental and ethical impacts.
The reality is that despite the benefits of second-hand stores, a circular economy cannot exist harmoniously with a linear economy.
~
Claire Beard, ENV2301 student